Hi readers! It has been way too long since I have posted here. There are a couple of updates in the life of the Cake Merchant. First, I got a new oven! And it has a convection setting, which I am so excited about. I’m hoping it will make my life easier when it comes to macarons. Second, I started my doctorate in the fall while still working full time, which means I hardly have time to bake in my new oven, but I have gotten so many requests for a post on Italian method macarons that I felt like I had to post sooner rather than later. However, I plan to keep updating this post as I continue to experiment.
The Italian method of making macarons can seem even more intimidating than the French method, but once you get the hang of making Italian meringue, the rest of the process is not all that different than the French method. And since Italian meringue is more stable then French, the macaronage process is actually easier. When I first started using this method, I had a lot of trouble with making the meringue itself and getting it to the right consistency, and I had even more trouble finding information on how to do it correctly.
My goal is writing this post is to be as detailed as possible when going step-by-step through the process of making these. After I posted my recipe for the French method, I was really surprised at how many readers not only appreciated the recipe, but were as obsessed and detail oriented as me at wanting to master macaron making. I’m glad to have found kindred macaron spirits out there who are willing to go down this rabbit hole with me, and maybe together we can use our internet hive mind to perfect this finicky little cookie.
So let’s start with the recipe. Unlike the French method which can vary greatly, the Italian method generally has an almond flour:powdered sugar:granulated sugar ratio of 1:1:1. The egg white content can be anywhere from 60-90% of the weight of almond flour. A very low egg white content can cause a dry/crumbly macaron and a very high egg white content can cause a finished product that is too soft. I like the go somewhere in the middle with this percentage. Italian macarons also tend to have a higher sugar content than French.
One thing that I learned after spending a summer up to my elbows in macaron batter is that the oven matters. I thought that after months of making thousands of these little guys, preparing the perfect Italian meringue, aging the whites, and getting the macaronage just right, I would be able to replicate the recipe at home. But after a year of using the exact same recipe (although slightly paired down), I can definitely say that it did not work in my oven.
When I made macarons at the bakery, I never got one hollow shell. NOT ONE. However, I was baking them in a convection oven with rotating racks and the oven temperature didn’t fluctuate more than a few degrees. My guess is that this helped the macaron shells bake evenly and fully set without overbaking.
My old electric oven at home fluctuated (according to oven thermometer) more than 75 degrees and the air didn’t circulate properly. If I wanted the shells to have a proper texture, they were not fully set on the inside when I took them out and collapse as they are cooling. If I wanted them to set properly, I had to bake them so long that they turned brown and were hard and crunchy. At first I thought this had to do with the type of meringue, but now I think this has more to do with the higher sugar content in the macaron.
Also, I had a lot of problems with lopsided feet. Initially I thought this had to do with resting times or how I beat the meringue, but I switched from pans with a raised edge to flat cookie sheets and this problem went away. My guess is this is because the air doesn’t circulate well in an electric oven, so the shells were heating unevenly. The funny thing is that I never had this problem when using the French method.
So now that I have a convection oven, do my Italian method macarons turn out better? Yes! Do they turn out as well as they did at the bakery? No. I still have had problems with hollows, although the lopsided feet problem has gone away, probably due to better air circulation. I am using a fan convection and not a true convection oven like the bakery had, so this may also have to do with the hollow issue. I still sometimes have to overbake the shells to get them to set properly, and this takes away from that chewy texture that I love. However, I’ve been trying different oven temperatures so see what works best, and I find that if put the shells in a hot oven (around 350) and then turn the temp down to 315, they usually set properly without burning or getting to hard.
One advantage to using the Italian method is that you do not have to rest the shells. I’ve included pictures of shells that went into the oven right after piping as well as this that were rested for about 45 minutes. The shells that went into the oven had smaller feet, but were less prone to hollows. You can see the air space between the shell and the foot, which normally indicated that the shell is not hollow, which I learned from Love and Macarons. The shells that rested had a taller, more ruffly foot, but more of them were hollow. The rested macarons also had a less shiny shell than the unrested macarons.
Above: Shells were not dried before baking
Below: Shells were dried for about 30 minutes before baking
Making the Italian meringue is a more complicated process than a French meringue, and needs to be done differently for macarons than Italian buttercream. This is something I had a lot of difficulty with initially, but when I worked at the bakery, I got to go through this step by step with an experienced pastry chef. You need to time the boiling sugar syrup (heated 20 243 just right with the beating of the egg whites. This is easier to do if you have a gas stove (which I don’t). If you add the boiling sugar syrup too early, you won’t get enough volume in your meringue. If you add it too late, you can deflate the meringue. I did this on my first day working at the bakery and ruined a 20 quart batch of Italian meringue!
You also can’t make the Italian meringue in small batches. The main reason for this is that you want the meringue to be slightly warm when you mix it with the dry ingredients so that it forms a proper shell. If you make a very small batch of Italian meringue, it will cool down too much by the time it gets to the right consistency and won’t incorporate properly with the dry ingredients. Contrary to popular belief, you don’t have to get very stiff peaks with this method. As long as you can hold the bowl upside down and the meringue stays put and the meringue temp is about 104 degrees fahrenheit, you’re done. Unlike the French method, it’s ok if the peak falls over.
Overall, I would say that even though macaronage is easier with the Italian method, it is more sensitive to oven issues. The French method really works for me consistently in my oven, I am comfortable with the macaronage process, and I can make it in small batches. Until I get a true convection oven or need to make macarons in large quantities, I probably won’t use the Italian method. However, I understand why many bakeries use it. If you have a good oven, it is easier to make in large batches and you can even do some of the macaronage with a mixer. What are your thoughts? I am interested to hear your results.
Here’s the recipe, which is adapted from Pierre Hermé. This is the smallest batch I can make in my mixer without the meringue getting too cold.
Ingredients
- 200 grams almond flour
- 200 grams powdered sugar
- 75 grams egg whites
- 200 grams granulated sugar
- 50 grams water
- 75 grams egg whites
- food coloring or flavor extracts (optional)
Instructions
- Preheat the oven to 350 degrees fahrenheit.
- Line 4 baking sheets with silpats or parchment paper.
- Fit a piping bag with a round tip (I like Ateco 804 or 805).
- In a food processor, pulse together the almond flour and powdered sugar a few times until they are combined (not too long, or you'll end up with nut butter). Alternatively, you can sift the ingredients together if you don't have a food processor.
- Once they're combined, place them in a large bowl and mix them together with 75 grams of the egg whites until they form a paste and cover over with plastic wrap. This is the bowl you will be doing the macaronage in later, so make sure it's large enough. You can also add any food coloring you want at this stage.
- Combine the water and granulated sugar in a saucepan. Whenever you make sugar syrup, it's best to add the sugar to the pan first to prevent any crystals from getting stuck to the side of the pan.
- Cook the sugar syrup on the stove on medium high heat. Once it starts boiling, put the candy thermometer in, turn it down to medium, and don't stir.
- Place the remaining 75 grams of egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment.
- Once the sugar syrup gets to about 220 degrees, start whisking the egg whites on low for a couple of minutes, then turn the mixer up to medium until you get soft peaks. If the egg whites get to soft peaks before your sugar syrup gets to the right temperature (244 degrees fahrenheit), turn the mixer back down to low until the sugar syrup is done.
- Once the sugar syrup gets to 244, turn the mixer up to high and slowly pour the sugar syrup down the side of the mixing bowl while the eggs are whipping. Try to do this in a slow steady stream, since pouring it too fast will cause the sugar syrup to stick to the bottom and congeal. It's helpful to have an oven mitt or hot pad to support the bottom of the (extremely) hot saucepan.
- Keep whipping the egg whites until the temperature comes down to 104 degrees fahrenheit. You may not have very stiff peaks like the French method, but that's ok. If you can hold the bowl upside down without the meringue running down the side, you're good.
- Using a spatula (I like a sturdy one like this one
), fold the meringue into the egg white/almond flour paste 1/3 at a time. The first 1/3 can be incorporated throughly. The next 2 additions should be folded in gently so you don't over mix. The Italian meringue is sturdy, but you want to fold it into the paste until it runs down in ribbons and incorporates back into the batter in 10-20 seconds.
- Fill the piping back with the macaron batter and pipe out circles about 1.5 inches in diameter.
- Bake for about 12 minutes. If you have a convection oven, you can bake two sheets at a time. If not, one sheet at a time works best.
- If the macaron shells still wiggle when you touch them after 12 minutes, bake them for a few more minutes until they are set.
- Cool completely before removing from the silpat (I like the to stick the whole baking sheet in the freezer. They come off easily and are easier to fill and handle when they are cold).
- Fill with ganache, jam, or buttercream.
- Rest the filled macarons in the refrigerator or freezer for at least 24 hours before serving, and bring to room temperature before eating.
), fold the meringue into the egg white/almond flour paste 1/3 at a time. The first 1/3 can be incorporated throughly. The next 2 additions should be folded in gently so you don't over mix. The Italian meringue is sturdy, but you want to fold it into the paste until it runs down in ribbons and incorporates back into the batter in 10-20 seconds.
For my French method recipe, click here.
Your recipe for French Macarons is absolutely amazing! Thank you! My success rate isn’t quite as high when using Italian meringue – which I prefer in terms of taste/texture. I also have issues with lopsided tops. For the life of me, I can’t figure out what I do differently each time. Some times one tray in a batch with be perfect and the second…not so much. I was attributing this to resting time. What are your thoughts? Do you pipe out multiple trays at once (those some would rest for up to a half hour). Or do you think I should keep the batter in the piping bag until I’m ready for the next batch. Thank you in advance!!! Oh I also live in a dry, cool climate and have a convection oven.
What kind of baking sheets are you using? I’ve noticed that I have to use flat cookie sheets or turn my rimmed baking pans upside down to get rid of lopsided feet. I’ve never tried leaving the batter in the bag until I’m ready to pipe, but I might try that with the next batch because I get less hollows in my oven when the piped batter isn’t rested. When I worked at a bakery we piped out all the macarons and rested them for an hour, but they had a rotating convection oven so I never had hollows or lopsided feet.
Thank you so much for this blog– this was tremendous help in switching from the French method to the Italian method! Like several people, I had major, MAJOR issues with lopsided shells, but turning my pans upside down and baking on the un-rimmed side solved it completely. Not one lopsided shell! Nothing else mattered– resting time, macaronage, Silpats vs parchment– it was absolutely the rimmed pans. Just fyi, I needed to double pan my shells with the French method, and still need to with the Italian (both pans are upside down).
Hi Kathy, I ruined so many batches until I figured out it was the rimmed pans. I’m glad this was helpful for you!
I’m not sure what you mean by rimmed pans. I just stared the Italian method 3 time trying each and everyone of my shells but 4 was lopsided ?. Normally I cut my piping bag. And that’s what I did first 2 times. 3 time I thought ahhhh let’s use a tip. Ughhhh all but 4 and half hollow
Sometimes baking pans have a raised lip around the edge, rather than being flat like a cookie sheet. This can prevent air from circulating and cause lopsided feet.
This is very good recipe, i am definitely going to make in my bakery and will follow all your instructions,
Hi! Thanks so much for your recipe. I’m obsessed with making the perfect macaron. I have a recipe in which I got from a class I took at a bakery in NYC. The recipe is the Italian version. The problem I am running into is that it makes 75 cookies and I want to divide the batter to make 3 colors. Could you tell me when would be the right time to do this? The other day I mixed the whole batter together then separated it into 3 bowls then coloring each one. I undermixed the batter knowing I would have to fold in color. The came out good but didn’t have great feet. Maybe I overmixed? Thanks for any info!
Italian method is unique in that you can portion out and color the almond paste portion then portion out the meringue appropriately. This way there is little chance of over mixing your batter.
I don’t know about the overmixing or anything like that but you should add in the color at the same time when you add in the flavoring, just before/right when you are at the end of whisking the egg whites, you should also only use gel food coloring because it comes out stronger and doesn’t add as much liquid to the batter. I was going to try and change to the Italian method but I decided to try the french again (I tried it once before) and I found a really good recipe by Tasty I made them lemon flavor though and they came out perfectly I highly recommend them but you should check them in the oven a lot. 🙂
Oh my goodness… love, love, LOVE!! Your articles. I’ve poured over both the Italian and the French recipe, even the science behind the ratio parts!! So interesting and so thorough. I just made your Italian recipe and they turned out fairly good. I had the odd couple on each tray that cracked or were a touch lumpy (I swear I always under-mix by about 3 strokes!) and I can’t help but still have hollows. I have however for the first time produced an entire batch with a shiny, flat bottom so I’m stoked on that!! Thank you x 1 million!!
I’m so glad to hear this!
Hello! You are making this looks so easy and I love it!! This is so good, I will try this today! Thanks for this! I hope my family will like it!
This is so extremely helpful!!! I feel like I understand much better how macarons are constructed – I’m trying to learn how to make them, but it’s hard to figure out what I’m doing wrong if I don’t know the basics. =)
My only question is to what extent does food color and flavor extracts affect the batter? If I wanted to add a “dry” ingredient like cocoa powder or ground pistachio, would I need to reduce the amount of the almond flour or powdered sugar to compensate? Would it be better to stick to an extract for the shells and use the actual ingredient to make the filling?
I’ve taken notes, and I’m so excited to try making macarons again – thank you so much for this article!!
Hi, I was wondering if you’ve tried the Swiss method? I’ve been having trouble with getting feet on mine. Thank you.
I have not tried it since I got my new oven, but plan to soon. I’ll let you know how it goes!
I too am interested in the swiss method, and it seems very difficult to find recipes for this… I figure that should tell me something, like maybe swiss meringue isn’t good for macarons? I assume you’d take the french method, only changing the meringue process. I appreciate the “goldilocks” middle ground of the swiss meringue, easier to make than italian but sturdier than french. I’ve just attempted (and FAILED) my first french macaron (NO feet, sticky bendy shells that never got a skin after hours of resting) but that was before reading your wonderful scientific explanations! Can’t wait to try again with a more thorough understanding! THANK YOU for explaining what each ingredient does so i can start to adjust my french recipe! Now to try italian…
You should try the french macaron Tasty recipe. You can change the flavoring and color but I would check them frequently in the oven.
Hello! I’m so thankful to find your blog. I tried the Italian method and was successful but my macarons have a browning edge on top, even if they’re not yet done. I’ve gone as low as 285 deg F on a true convection. what can be causing this? I’d really love to have some true pastel colored macarons
Is your heating element on the top of your oven? You can try putting an extra pan on the top rack to shield the macarons. Also, if you over mix, the shells can turn out thin and burn.
This is my go to recipe! I live at altitude and it works basically every time unless I do not wait long enough. A couple of modifications to your recipe to get it to work for me; I have a gas stove –
1) I increase the meringue egg whites to 85g; I have tried with boxed egg whites and it works with the addition of one egg white from an egg. If using boxed egg whites, another few minutes of beating is necessary.
2) I bake at 280-290F. If I use a thinner sheet pan, 24 minutes, if I use aluminum/light colored thicker pan, 30 minutes. I use silicone mats. I find with parchment paper, 16 minutes is more than enough before the edges start to brown.
I need a convection oven for macaron perfection. I NEED IT!!
Am making my 1st batch and they’re turning out terribly. They’ve risen and are peaked in the center. Kind of like a hershey’s kisses. Every one is majorly cracked and the insides have oozed out. I did not let them dry like with the french method because neither the recipe that I’m using nor your recipe say to rest them to get a hard skin. Any clue what I did wrong? Also, what type of thermometer do you use ? Can you use an infrared thermometer?????
Thanks
Can you send me a photo?
Thank you SO much for this recipe! This was only my second attempt at macarons and first using the Italian method and I couldn’t be happier with how they turned out.
I never comment on anything but I was just so excited about how these came out I had to say thanks!
Hi when would you suggest to add any flavouring to the macaron shells?
I would add any extracts to the meringue just before you finish whipping.
I am using a convection oven at a bakery. I am going to try your recipe tomorrow! What tips can you give me for a commercial bakery? I’ve gone through about $150 of almond flour this week and I can’t seems to get it!
What specific problems are you having?
Are the temperatures mentioned above (preheat and 350 and turn down to 315) for your Italian meringue the temperatures you use in a convection oven? Or, are those the ones that should be used for a conventional oven.
I have a true convection oven. What temperatures would you suggest starting with?
I love your blog. Thank you!
These were for my electric oven. If you have a true convection oven, you may want to start at 315. If you are getting hollows, you can try experimenting with preheating the oven to a higher temperature.
Hi! We can’t find any powdered sugar in the stores, and was wondering if there is any possible way to make Macarons with only granulated sugar?
I don’t think you can. Powdered sugar give the macarons its lightness. If you use all granulated sugar, you will end up with a very dense, hard macaron.
If I want to reduce to half is this going to affect anything? As a beginner I would fee intimidate making such a big batch!
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I’m having this same issue where my Italian macs are coming out lopsided, but I never have issues with the French method… I, like you, thought it was an issue with my meringue or resting times, which it still could be, but I feel like I’m doing everything right… I cook my sugar syrup to the proper temperature, get my meringue to a glossy, medium-ish peak, macaronage to the ribbon stage. But when I go to bake, almost all of them turn out lopsided. I’ve tried different resting times and oven temperatures as well as inverting my baking sheet so that the rims don’t interfere. I don’t know what’s going on!!!
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